When most people think of incense, they picture fragrant sticks releasing aromatic smoke. What many don't realize is that incense originally refers to a natural resin—a precious material that has been valued for thousands of years in perfumery, medicine, and religious rituals.

In the fragrance world, the term incense is often used broadly, referring not only to frankincense but also to several other aromatic resins. Each has its own unique origin, character, and olfactory profile. Let's explore some of the most important resinous ingredients used in perfumery today.

Frankincense (Olibanum)

The original incense, known as olibanum or frankincense, is a resin obtained from the Boswellia tree. These trees grow primarily in Oman, Yemen, Somalia and parts of India.

When the bark is carefully cut, the tree releases small droplets of translucent resin. These droplets, often called "tears," gradually harden and change from clear to pale yellow or golden in colour.

The word olibanum is believed to originate from the Arabic al-labān, meaning "milk," referring to the resin's milky appearance when first released. Today, when perfumers refer to incense, they are most often referring to frankincense.

In fragrance, frankincense offers a distinctive profile that is fresh, resinous, slightly citrusy, and subtly smoky. It adds depth, spirituality and elegance to countless compositions.

Benzoin

Benzoin is obtained from the Styrax benzoin tree, a majestic species that can grow up to thirty metres tall. Originally native to Southeast Asia and regions surrounding India, it is now also cultivated in Indonesia and Brazil.

Unlike frankincense, benzoin possesses a rich, warm, and sweet aroma with facets of vanilla, caramel, and balsamic resins. It is often used to add softness, warmth, and comfort to oriental and gourmand fragrances.

Labdanum

Labdanum is derived from the Cistus ladanifer shrub, commonly known as the rock rose. This flowering shrub thrives throughout the Mediterranean region and Morocco.

The resin has a rich, sweet, honey-like aroma with leathery and amber nuances. Because of its warmth and complexity, labdanum is frequently used as a key ingredient in amber accords and is often considered one of the foundations of oriental perfumery.

Galbanum

Galbanum is obtained from the stems and leaf stalks of Ferula gummosa, a plant primarily found in Iran and Syria.

Unlike many resins that are known for warmth and sweetness, galbanum is prized for its remarkably green and fresh character. Its aroma is sharp, vibrant and reminiscent of crushed leaves and freshly cut stems.

Perfumers often use galbanum to create green floral fragrances or to add natural freshness and contrast to richer compositions.

Oudh

Although technically not classified as a traditional resin, oud shares many similarities with resinous materials and deserves a place among them.

Oudh is formed when the Aquilaria tree produces a dark aromatic resin as a response to a natural infection. The resulting material is one of the most valuable fragrance ingredients in the world, celebrated for its woody, smoky, leathery and deeply complex character.

Its rarity and cultural significance have earned it the nickname liquid gold.

Amber (Amber Resin)

Amber can sometimes cause confusion in perfumery because the term may refer to either ambergris or fossilized tree resin.

The amber discussed here is fossilized resin, commonly known as amber resin or amber stone. Formed from ancient pine and conifer trees, it has been valued for centuries for both ornamental and aromatic purposes.

When heated, amber resin releases a warm, resinous scent with subtle pine-like nuances. Its rich character has inspired countless amber accords in modern perfumery.

Harvesting Resin

The harvesting process varies depending on the tree or plant species, but frankincense provides a classic example.

Between February and March, the bark of the Boswellia tree is carefully incised. The resin does not flow immediately; instead, it slowly emerges over the course of several weeks. After two to three months, the hardened resin tears can be collected by hand.

To protect the health of the trees, harvesters rotate between different Boswellia trees, allowing time for recovery between harvests. A mature tree produces only a limited quantity of resin each year, often around 400 grams.

For all resinous materials, the highest quality resin is collected directly from the tree. Resin gathered from the ground is generally considered lower grade because it may contain impurities and environmental contamination.

Today, the finest frankincense is widely regarded as coming from the Dhofar region of Oman.

A History Spanning Thousands of Years

The use of incense dates back thousands of years and has long been associated with spirituality and ritual.

Ancient Egyptians used frankincense in religious ceremonies, processions, and burial rites. Throughout history, incense has played a significant role in Christianity, Islam, Buddhism, Hinduism, and many other traditions, where it has been used to honour deities, purify sacred spaces, and symbolize prayer rising toward the heavens.

Its enduring connection to spirituality continues to influence the way incense is used in modern perfumery, where it often evokes contemplation, serenity, and mystery.

Interesting Facts About Incense

• Frankincense has traditionally been used in herbal and wellness practices around the world.
• In Chinese medicine, frankincense has historically been valued for its soothing properties.
• Distillation produces frankincense essential oil, while solvent extraction creates a different aromatic profile known as a resin extract or absolute.
• These two materials can smell surprisingly different and are often used for distinct effects in perfumery.

Whether smoky, balsamic, green, sweet, or woody, resins remain some of the most fascinating and historically significant ingredients in perfumery. Their ability to add depth, warmth, and emotion ensures they continue to play an essential role in fragrance creation today.